Casa Del Capitel Nazarí ***
Granada, Spain

Millions of visitors flow through Granada every year, drawn to the majestic Alhambra, the greatest achievement of the Moorish dynasties that ruled Spain for more than 700 years. Occupying a narrow ridge that rears over the city, that complex of gardens and palaces looks down upon the equally ancient Albaicín, a barrio of narrow twisting streets emptying into tiny pocket plazas.

A growing enthusiasm for boutique hotels brings us the gift of this paragon of the breed, the Casa del Capitel Nazarí. Fashioned from a Renaissance mansion built in 1503, its three stories have open walkways around the traditional interior courtyard.

Ringed by columns dating from the several civilizations that occupied the region, including two from the Roman era, the patio serves as both lobby and art gallery. An upstairs terrace has views of the Alhambra and the city. Wooden beams, stone and tiles were selected to match the original materials, but the decor is clean and uncluttered. Modern needs are met not only with commodious bathrooms and TV sets but with Internet connections in all 17 rooms.

The central Plaza Nueva is nearby, with shuttle buses running up to the Alhambra. Downtown shopping, restaurants and the extravagant Baroque cathedral are only a few blocks further. Nine distinctive guided tours are offered by the hotel.

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