Hotel Rector ****
Salamanca, Spain

About 130 miles northwest of Madrid, Salamanca is a city born of contrasting forces -- faith and intellectualism. These are manifest in two cathedrals and one of the oldest and most distinguished universities in Europe. Its many compact blocks are crowded with ancient shops, taverns, churches and seigniorial mansions, a feast of architectural flourishes from Gothic to Baroque.

Grand as it undeniably is, Salamanca is more than a living museum. Its narrow streets amplify the exuberance of thousands of college students, many of them visiting North Americans. They gather at all hours in the 18th Century Plaza Mayor, a magnificent enclosed square that equals any in Spain. Outdoor cafes are filled with locals, tourists and young foreigners who meet here before setting off along the pedestrian streets that radiate from the corners of the plaza.

Between the edge of the old town and the River Tormes is the Hotel Residencia Rector, as tranquil in tone as might be wished. Once an aristocratic residence, its neo-classical exterior contains only 13 rooms and one suite, all of them uncommonly spacious and discretely furnished. Minibars, satellite TV, room safe, air conditioning and double-glazed windows are standard. The gracefully efficient staff is quick to understand and satisfy the needs of its guests, at reception or bringing drinks in the bar or breakfast in the fetching salon.

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